While this article will tell you how to make colloidal silver at home, there is a colloidal silver supplier that makes a product that you can not make at home. For those who can afford it, this is the colloidal silver you should buy. It’s called Silver Utopia Advanced Colloidal Silver. Here is where to buy it:
There are two other brands of colloidal silver which are also excellent. The MesoSilver brand is very similar to Utopia Silver . The ASAP Plus , which is 22 ppm, is also a very excellent brand.
Colloidal Silver Making Equipment You Can Buy
While there are many, many manufacturers of colloidal silver equipment, this is a brand that is among the best. The mark is Silver Puppy . Here is where to buy it:
Silver Puppy Equipment for Making Colloidal Silver
Introduction to making your own silver at home
This article will describe a way to make colloidal silver in the country. After the first batch of colloidal silver is made, the second and future lots should make one gallon of high quality 6 PPM to 8 PPM (pieces per million) colloidal silver in an hour and a half.
The first batch will take about three hours as it will not have the benefit of planting The gallon with previously prepared Colloidal silver (this seed is necessary to create a better electric current in the distilled water). Once the first batch is made, future batches can be seeded, So it will take less time to do these lots.
All statistics in this article are based on a 400 mA (400 milliampere) packet. If someone uses a 800 mA power supply, the times needed will be shorter.
The power supply
There are several important aspects of this method, but the key is a 12 volt DC power supply. Here are their specifications:
Entry (standard exit in United States):
120 volts AC
12 volts DC
400 mA (milliamps)
The output can be anywhere between 400 mA and 800 mA. To write this article, we used the 400 mA.
As a physical description, these are energy packs consisting of a small black box, with the plug that sticks directly out of the box. In other words, the black box connects directly to the wall. It has two long cables protruding from the box. What is at the other end of the cables is not relevant because you will cut the ends and remove the two cables (obviously, while the power pack is disconnected ).
These batteries should be available at Radio Shack or at any electronics store. They can be purchased in bulk through the internet at very cheap prices.
The silver cables
Silver wires should be 12 gauge 14 (AWG) pure silver wire (14 gauge is most preferred), between 99.95 percent and 99.999 percent pure silver. You should NOT use sterling silver because it contains high levels of nickel, which is toxic. Be sure to buy pure silver wire.
There are several sellers of silver wire, but the silver wire you buy should be bought by the foot, and you should buy several feet of it, since you will need 2 wires at least 12 inches long and you will use the wires Up to every several months, depending on how often you make colloidal silver.
AT ALL TIMES, EXCEPT DURING COOKING OF COLOIDAL SILVER, SILVER WIRE MUST BE PROTECTED FROM ANY LIGHT. SHOULD BE WRAPPED AND STORED IN A WAY THAT THEY NEVER EXPOSE TO THE LIGHT. THE SILVER REACTS CHEMICALLY TO THE LIGHT.
The glass jars
You will need a one-gallon wide-mouth glass jar. It is essential that this bottle is made of pure glass, not plastic. The plastic can create a static charge.
The easiest way to get a jar, if you can not find one, is to buy a glass jar of one gallon of pickles. At Wal-Mart, for example, those who have food stores in them, you can buy pickles in bulk in one-gallon glass jars. Wal-Mart also has a section with many glass jars in it. In supermarkets, large jars will be in the bulk food section or in the gherkins section.
You will also need a plastic funnel that has a very wide bottom and a large funnel with a narrow bottom. The wide bottom funnels can be found at Wal-Mart in the canning section, or at any grocery store that has a packaging section. These funnels are not critical, but they are very useful when pouring the water from jar to jar.
You should also have some amber jars to store the finished colloidal silver. Even if you are able to buy the amber jars, in a quarter or half gallon in size, you still have to store the jars in a dark place. Here is a supplier of amber bottles of room size (ie 950 cc) (product: 4011-05):
Building the unit
You will need two crocodile clips, which may be small, but large enough to hold a 12 or 14 gauge silver cord in place (these would be medium-sized crocodile clips on Radio Shack). Usually these clips come in packages of 10 or more crocodile clips.
With the power unit unplugged, during construction, cut whatever is on the end of the cable into the original power supply. Separate the two wires by several inches. Throw each wire and solder a crocodile clip at the end of each wire. Use a red alligator clip and a black crocodile clip for both cables. It does not matter what color goes on what wire.
You may want to use a 100 ohm resistor. There are pros and cons associated with putting a 100 ohm resistor in one of the cables. The good news is that it will protect the power pack should two silver wires be touched by accident. The bad news is that putting a 100 ohm resistor in one of the cables will DOUBLE the time it takes to cook the colloidal silver.
Most people will not use a resistance. The power pack will be connected to a power strip, with the power strip turned off. Then lay your silver wires in place. With the silver cables in place, you turn on the power strip. Similarly, when they have to remove the silver wires for cleaning, they turn off the power pack before they touch the silver wires.
It’s your choice.
If you choose to use a resistance, it should be placed on one of the cables (no matter which) between the power supply and the crocodile clip. It does not matter in which direction the resistance is aimed.
If you are going to use an LED to display a current (which is not really necessary), put it on the other cable, ie do not put it on the same cable as the resistor.
You’ll definitely want to buy a small handheld battery-powered laser to see how colloidal silver is getting denser. These can also be purchased at Radio Shack or any office supply store. After the colloidal silver has been Cooking For 20 or 30 minutes, if you shine the laser through the glass jar, and look at the laser beam perpendicular to the beam, you can see the progress of the colloidal silver. In other words, your line of sight is perpendicular to the laser beam, which is drawn through the water.
You’ll probably want a long WOOD spoon to remove colloidal silver from time to time. However, the stirring of the colloidal silver actually slow the cooking slightly.
You will need a WOOD table to hold the wires in place on the top of the glass jar. Certainly, do not use metal or short silver cables. For example, use a small cutting board, with two 1/8 Holes drilled in the middle, 1 to 1 1/4 inches apart. Put a crocodile clip on the end of each 12-inch silver wire to prevent the cable from falling into the water. The other end of the silver wire is pushed through the hole in the wood and enters the water. Therefore, the wooden board is placed on the top of the wide-mouth jar and holds the silver wires in place.
The crocodile clip is placed so that the silver wire descends approximately 1 inch from the bottom of the jar.
The type of water to use
The only type of water you should use is distilled water, which has been distilled by distillation of water (not by reverse osmosis). There are no exceptions. All other types of water have too many impurities. While water impurities help speed up the cooking of colloidal silver, the minerals in the water can bind to the silver particles and eventually create a health condition known as argyria. Argyria is a condition where the skin turns gray or blue-gray due to taking high doses of impure colloidal silver over time. It is very difficult to reverse the condition, so it should be avoided.
DO NOT ADD SALT OR ANYTHING TO WATER & # 8211; PERIOD. While the salt will allow the current to flow, it can create silver chloride, which can cause argia over time.
DO NOT add NOTHING to water if you create a silver compound, such as silver chloride.
NO add preservatives, minerals, EDTA, proteins, gelatin, color, honey, etc.
You can use tap water ONLY if you are going to use colloidal silver for EXTERNAL purposes. It is 10 times easier to use tap water than distilled water because it allows electric currents to flow much better than distilled water. However, such colloidal silver should only be used for external purposes.
No matter what type of water you use, if the water turns black, pull the water, it has too many impurities.
Water will always be put into the gallon bottle in two parts. For the first part, half a liter (eg half a liter) of distilled water is put into the gallon jar. This is distilled water or distilled water from a batch of colloidal silver (this will be explained later). Either way, the water is at room temperature. The main reason to put this water first is to keep the glass jar from breaking when you pour the boiling water into it.
The second part of putting liquids into the jar is when you put pure distilled water, which was heated to a boil low, in the jar to finish filling the gallon jar with water.
In other words, first put half a quarter of distilled water or colloidal silver water at room temperature, then put it in low boiling distilled water to fill the rest of the bottle.
Always heat the distilled water in a STAINLESS STEEL POT that is not DISABLED. NEVER use an aluminum pot or a stainless steel pot that is copper coated or has any other coating. Heat until it reaches a low boiling point. Then pour the hot water into the jar that already has the water at room temperature in it. This is when the wide-mouth funnel is used, although it can also be used at other times.
Instructions for cooking the FIRST batch of colloidal silver
The instructions for cooking your first batch of colloidal silver are different than at other times. This is because their first batch does not have the luxury of having previously cooked colloidal silver put in the jar to help improve the electric current between the two silver cables.
Pure distilled water, which is the only kind of water you have for the first batch, conducts electricity very, very poorly. The good news is that as colloidal silver is made, the current will begin to flow better and better. However, the first lot will take about three hours to make.
Plug the power supply into a power strip that has an on / off switch, so you can turn it on and off with a switch. Turn off the power so that it does not damage the power supply while it is being configured.
Place the crocodile clips on the silver wires, one black on the top of a wire and a red alligator clip on the top of the other wire. Do not let the silver cables touch, just in case you forgot and left it on.
Put the silver wires through the wood and into the water and make sure the two wires do not touch each other or the side or bottom of the glass jar. Lower the silver wires about 1 inch from the bottom of the glass jar.
Dial the time and turn it on.
EVERY 4 or 5 minutes is required:
- Turn off power,
- Remove the silver wires from the jar,
- Clean the two silver wires with a paper towel and a non-metallic scouring pad (for example, a Scotchbright nylon pad nylon ), Li
- Put silver wires in the water, and
- Turn the power back on.
All this is necessary to prevent a black crunch from accumulating on the silver wires and floats to the bottom of the jar.This cooking should last about three hours (which includes frequent stops to clean the silver wires). The water should not turn milky or black, but may turn pale yellow if viewed from above. (These numbers are based on a 400 mA power supply.) Light yellow is good, but not necessary.The real test is laser light. After the first half hour or so, you should start shining the laser through the water from time to time, looking at it with a line of sight that is perpendicular to the laser beam. You will begin to see the beam, over time, get brighter and thicker. The thicker and brighter the beam, as it appears in the water, the greater the PPM of the colloidal silver.
By the time it is finished, the beam should look solid red (or any colored lasers you have), with crisp edges at the top and bottom of the light. This is your sign that the colloidal silver is ready. After three hours of cooking and cleaning, you should be able to see what aspect of this type of laser light.
When you have finished cooking the colloidal silver, put the water in the quart jars. Set aside one of the amber jars for seeds The next batch of colloidal silver. You will use half of this flask of a quarter of seed The next batch. Each subsequent batch must be seeded From one of the above lots.
The second, third, etc. lots.
There are only two differences between the second, third, etc. lots. And the first.
The first difference is that the half-quart of distilled water, at room temperature, put into the bottle will be replaced by a half-quarter of previously cooked colloidal silver. This is important to help the flow of electric current and shorten the time it takes to make a lot.
The second difference is that the second, third, etc. batches should only take about an hour and a half.
It is important to rotate the silver cables. In other words, do not always put the same silver wire on the red crocodile clip and the other on the black crocodile clip.
- How you make sure that you turn them up is up to you, but silver wires will last much longer if they are rotated at least once for cooking, although they can be rotated during a baking (after they are cleaned, for example).Store silver wires in a dark envelope or other dark place.Store colloidal silver in a cool place, but DO NOT refrigerate the colloidal silver.
Store the amber jars in a dark place.
If you buy a brine jar, it is impossible to remove the brine odor from the plastic liner on the lid. You may want to remove the cover and never use it again. Or you could put the wax paper between the lid and the jar.
NEVER REFRIGERATE COLLOIDAL SILVER.
How much to drink?
This depends on the individual. If colloidal silver is used for prevention, 3 ounces of 6 to 8 PPM of colloidal silver per day is all that an adult would probably need. If there is a common cold, pandemic flu, or other type of flu, circling, then it would be best to double the daily dose for prevention.
If colloidal silver is used for treatment purposes, it may be best to take 8 to 12 ounces of colloidal silver a day, for as much as 2 or 3 weeks at a time.
If you are going to take colloidal silver for several weeks at a time, make sure that it is pure silver that is being used, and not silver chloride or some other silver compound. See the Bob Beck Protocol article for more information:
Bob Beck Protocol [see: Colloidal Silver Section]
friendly bacteria in the digestive tract
Yes, colloidal silver can kill friendly bacteria in the digestive tract. Many take probiotics, lactobacillus acidophilus, lactobacillus bulgaricus, yogurt, etc. To replace the friendly intestinal flora.
An alternative method if you can not get a power pack
If you can not get the power pack, you can replace three 9-volt radio batteries. Hook them in series (hook the three negative battery leads to positive, leaving a positive lead at one end and a negative lead at the other open end) to make the output 27 volts. The three 9-volt batteries replace the power pack until you can get a power pack.
When using all three batteries, it is best to use a 16 ounce glass jar (ie, 450 grams). As above, in the first batch you should use distilled water, so it may take a significant amount of time to make the first batch. Using the prior art, place 10 percent or more of this first batch in a glass container. Then put this 10 percent into the second lot so it will not take that long to make the second lot. And so on.
Many thanks to Mr. Denzel & Denny Moyer and Mr. Troy Mullins, who contributed to this article.